Scrollsaws & Blades Reps





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Quality is _______________en the customer

How Scrollsaw Blades are Made

By Mike Moorlach

In the course of setting up the FlyingDutchman business, I have been able to visit two different factories that make scrollsaw blades. Except for some proprietary engineering process, both companies use the same methods for producing blades.

A big roll of wire-about 4 or 5 feet in diameter- is set up in front of a press.

This press makes the wire flat.  The press also sets the desired thickness of the blade they want to produce in a particular run.

There is a small table right behind the press where the teeth are milled. The now flattened steel wire is moved forward 5 inches at a time and a cylinder moves into the steel to cut the teeth for each blade. This cylinder is about 4 inches in diameter and has very sharp edges which cut the teeth of the new saw blade. A different cylinder is needed for each type/size of blade that can be produced. As the cylinder moves back out of the way, the steel wire moves forward again 5 inches so the next blade can be milled. The process of using this “cylinder” is why this is called being milling.

When the wire leaves this table it is rolled up again on a big spool. Then this spool is moved to a different location in the plant where the steel is hardened. The steel is hardened by heating the wire and then moving the wire through a bath of oil that is kept at the proper temperature for getting the perfect hardness of the blade. A computer controls the temperature of the oil so there is no variation and the proper hardening can take place at all times.

The next machine cuts the roll of hardened steel into 5″ pieces. The blades have now been produced and now need to be checked for quality and packaged.  The blades are hand counted by workers. The majority of these workers are ladies. The companies have found that most women have a much better feel in their fingers than most men do. Test this for yourself-take a dozen or more blades in your right hand, move them with your thumb and index finger around a little and then count a dozen blades by 3’s. You will need to use your thumb and index finger to help with the counting: 3, 6, 9, and 12.  See how well you could do this job. They sit at a big round table that has tubes about 2 inches from the outside edge. The workers grab a quantity of blades and then count out a dozen to place in the appropriate tube.  The table turns slowly-in about 3 inch intervals giving them enough time to fill the tubes as it moves to the next part of the operation.

Above this table is a machine with an arm above the table that will move down and pick up a grouping of 12 blades. This machine then spins the group of 12 blades while very thin wire is wrapped around the grouping of blades. This package is then dropped into a container. Workers then count and gather 12 of these packages together.

The next machine places this combination of 12 packets of 12 blades each into poly bags. These bags are labeled with the name of the company and the size and measurements of the particular blade that was made in this run.

I’m sure that when you have used a scroll saw for many years you have found that sometimes you have received blades that were not good. I have been told that this is a problem with the wire the blades are made from.  There can be some bad spots in the roll of wire that was missed in quality control checking by the company that first made the wire.  Also you will find that with some blades you have to move the wood to the left more than other times. When the cylinder is getting dull, it will leave just a little bit bigger burr than when it is new. It wants to cut more to the right. Therefore you’have to move your work piece a little more to the left, in order to stay on your line.

If there are any questions feel free to email me and I will try to answer.

Mike Moorlach

Flying Dutchman Scrollsaw Blades

Mike@mikesworkshop.com

I have used blades from many sources and manufacturers over the last several years.  Flying Dutchman blades are absolutely the finest blades available.  I purchase them in bulk from the manufacturer in Germany and pass the savings on to you.  Choose from many popular sizes.  All these blades are 5 inches long and Pinless.

www.mikesworkshop.com

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These blades are of great quality and will last a long time. Each set comes with their own storage tube. You won’t be disappointed with this product.


http://www.pswood.com/home.php

 

*PS WOOD-                                                 

3032 Industrial Blvd.

Bethel Park, Pa., 15102

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*RBI-

P. O. Box 127

319 South Main Street

Bushton, Kansas 67427

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*Dewalt-

PO Box 158                                                          

626 Hanover Pike

Hampstead, MD 21074

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*Hegner-

PO Box 312 Dept. 863

New Castle, DE.  19720

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*Excalibur-

No longer in production

940 Brock Rd                                                   

Pickering, ON.,  L1W2A1

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*Grizzly Industrial-

PO Box 2069                                                     

Bellingham, WA., 98227

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*Ridgid Tool-

400 Clark St

Elyria, OH 44036

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*Delta-

4825 Hwy45 N.

Jackson, TN. 38302

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*Eclipse-

No longer in production.

11700 Lock Lane                                                      

New Kent, VA 23124

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4 Comments

  • Hugh Burka says:

    How do you cut out very close patter cuts and not break off piceses that are already cut out

  • KTDESIGN says:

    Watch this video to see me secrets….

    Please subscribe to my YouTube channel to see more videos.

  • Bill says:

    I am a beginner scroller. I am working on 3/4 inch puzzles in pine. In the future I will be going to thinner blanks. What are the best type of wood blanks to use ? Also , do double reverse or skip reverse blades really work that well ? I have found they give me more vibration and do not corner or follow the line very well.I tried an OLSON PGT spiral blade Universal No 2 and found it difficult to keep on the line and very rough on the cut on the bottom especially. I would like to try more intricate pieces as well some day. I have an RBI 226 saw. Any suggestions ? Thank You

  • Hersh says:

    Bill, Once you get more experienced,the project will determine what material to use – I use to use Olson blades, especially the PGTs, but since have changed to Flying Dutchman FD-UR – Vibration can come from several sources: Not enough tension on your blade, your blade not being square to your table and can also be caused by pushing the material through the saw too quickly, that will also make turning corners much more difficult. Guide the wood to the blade don’t push it through, as they say let the blade do the cutting. Rough cuts on the bottom can be handled by using a reverse blade or in FD terms, Ultra Reverse, several teeth on the blades going each direction. Spiral blades definitely take some pratice and you either hate them or love the. Sheila Landry also has some great videos for beginners

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